Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, August 8, 2012
Not My Best Session This Week
Caught
a few really fun waves early. Then I
just struggled finding the right wave.
Kept chasing down the wrong one or getting jacked down the line. Winter
can’t come fast enough as far as I’m concerned. Tomorrow’s another day.
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