Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
In And Out
Had a tight schedule this morning and only surfed for an hour and a half. Caught a few fun ones and hauled ass to work. I need to publicly apologize to Jenna and Nick for taking off on them this morning. Bad decisions in the heat of the moment. I think I'll take a couple of days off, after surfing 9 days straight I'm waking up exhausted and making bad decisions in the water. Need to rest up and get my mind right!
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