Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Sunday, August 12, 2012
Damn, The Water Is Warm
A little bit of surf, warm water and clear skies make an exceptional beach day. Surfed Churches again this morning with Steve. The first 45 minutes was a blast, it was pretty much just the two of us in the water and the waves were firing. That changed dramatically after 7:00 when the tide filled in and and mushed out the waves. Not to mention the 40 people on longboards who joined us. We got the best of it though.
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