Double Dippin SOB

The new swell is off to a slow start, the afternoon was only slightly bigger than the morning.

AM

 PM

Lowers Again

Only had a small window of time this morning, so given the lack of buoy activity and no cars up top Dave, Henning and I went for a one hour session at Lowers.  The first 45 minutes was just the three of us.  Henning caught the wave of the morning.  Caught four or five little waves before a swarm of young rippers paddled out just as we were getting ready to pack it in.  A little south wind was getting on it too, but the water was warm and the sunrise spectacular.  Glad I wore the 2mm.  All in all it was better than sleeping in.  There will be waves for the holiday weekend; hope it’s not too crowded.  What are the odds?

Lowers

Since no one was in the parking lot and the buoys were way down we decided to go to Lowers for a quick one.   Even though Autumn doesn’t technically begin till September 22nd, it sure felt like fall this morning.  Water dropped 5˚ to 70˚ (colder a foot or two deeper) and the air was around to 60˚.   Still wore the 2mm, but not sure for how much longer.  Waves were belly high, it was offshore and not too crowded by Lowers standards.  In at 5:50 out at 7:00.

A little nugget at Uppers

You Can't Score If You Don't Go

You also can't score if you get out too early.   Spent the morning trying to catch knee to belly high gutless waves.   After I changed and as I was getting ready to leave one decent chest high set rolled through.  Timing is everything.   I wonder if more sets like this rolled through after I left?   Maybe it's better that I don't know.

Rich

Pretty Much A Fiasco

Smaller than yesterday and 3X more crowded.   Guys that paddled for everything, a guy with a go-pro camera who thought he was the only one in the water and a pod of clueless longboarders.   I had to duck dive under one of these guys cuz he was sooo out of control; total survival stance without the ability to maneuver his log.  Yep, we had it all today.   The first half hour I caught a few fun ones so it wasn't a total loss but I should have packed it in earlier.

Nice Balmy Morning

75˚ water.  That’s it.  Waves were soft, small and slow.  Not good for a 200 pound old buzzard on a 6’ fish.  Not much on the horizon either.  Were looking at a pretty frustrating weekend unless by some chance a windswell is conjured up. 

Wave of the morning

A Flurry Of Waves

Wasn't expecting much more than hot water this morning.  But surprise surprise. we had a flurry of  belly high + waves, pretty much the whole time I was in the water.  I had to leave early (7:00) but caught close to a dozen waves in 75 minutes.   BTW there were only a handful of people in the water too. You can't score if you don't go.  

  

Hot Water

I’ve been surfing locally for almost 45 years and I don't think it's been this warm more than a dozen times: 74˚/75˚ (It was 77˚ yesterday evening).   Not too much in the way of waves, just the occasional chest high remnant from the last swell.   The outlook is not encouraging for the remainder of the week.