Paddled out at 6:00 and my first wave was head high and about
a hundred yards long; no BS. Caught 3
or 4 more that were at least 60 yards long. Positioned myself a little south of the pack
and picked off the set waves that swung around until 7:30 or so when the tide pretty
much put the kybosh on that wave. But I
caught a few bombs early; had the wave magnet and my mojo at the same time and even
though my low back was bothering me a little. On my way in I missed two or three waves due
to position and drifted way inside; running late as usual. Then caught a small wave in front of the
shack that stood up on the inside and rode it 2/3 of the way to lowers. My arms are like spaghetti noodles.
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