Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, February 3, 2012
I'm Turning Into A Fair Weather Surfer
Couldn't bring myself to hit it early this morning, high tide, small waves, cold as hell. Hit it this afternoon instead on the incoming tide. Small and uncrowded.
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