Paddled out into the choco-water at 6am and was back on my
bike headin’ up by 7:35. With the full
moon I could have paddled out 15 minutes earlier; next time. Had to be on the phone by 8:00, so there was
no time to take any decent pics. It was
offshore, chest to head high jumbled up wind waves with three guys out. A lot of one and two turn waves because it
was so peaky. A few connected through to
the inside. Took off too late on a head
high wave and paid for it. Damn it!
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