There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Friday, March 5, 2010

March 5th

Returned to CA late Tuesday night - missed Wednesday - heard it was 1X overhead!   Checked it out Thursday and didn't go out; too small, disorganized and unfavorable winds.   I think Phil and Tom went out.  Today however was outstanding!  I checked the bouys last night and they wern't showing much so I decided to take the longboard.   Big mistake.   Consistent head high waves, hard offshores and..... wait for it..... only 4 guys out for the first hour and a half.   By the time I got out of the water it was already starting to decrease in size as you can see by the picks below.   You'll just have to trust me that it was twice this size at dawn.















Wednesday, March 3, 2010

March 2nd

Yesterday was a travel day, got a few pics of the bay in the early morning:



Monday, March 1, 2010

March 1st

A man has got to know his limitations:















2X - 3X overhead














Major wind swell - very disorganized - the locals were having a hard time














Spongers were getting all the good waves:














Looked at hole in the head, S turns, Rainbows and Kaanapali shores - small and blown out.   All I did was watch and wish I were 20 years younger.  

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Feb 28th

So far today:
Flat - Flat - Flat
Rain - Rain - Rain
Wind - Wind -Wind

Feb 27th - Tsunami Day

The sirens were going off beginning at 6am.   The surf was small, plus the cops were keeping everyone out of the water.   A total non-event, but it sure brought out the crowds (including us!).  














The road up to the Plantation was packed with cars on both sides - lawn chairs, blankets, ice chests.  A definate party atmosphere.
Plenty of air support:  
No Tsunami today.   We spent the rest of the day by the pool since the roads were packed.

Feb 26th






Crowded from the get go.

The locals were on patrol - regulating the mainlanders

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Feb 25th

Shoulder high and empty? 

So far 5 days in Maui and 5 days of waves.   This already makes up for being skunked last year.


Sunday, February 21, 2010

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Today was unreal. I paddled out at 5:50am; I was the only one on the beach. I surfed till 6:30 before Dave and Pete showed up. Then the 3 of us surfed until 7:00 before Chris and others began to arrive. I surfed in front of the shack pretty much by myself all morning until it was time to go to work at 8:00. Everyone at work is wondering about my shit eatin' grin. And to top it off I'm headed to Maui for 10 days on Saturday. Honolua Bay will be a nice change of pace.




Wednesday, February 17, 2010

It's come to this


SUP's as they were intended to be used.

Lame


This is the kind of crap that gives surfing that lame sterotype. Don't buy mattresses from kooks!

Feb 15


Surf from Monday Feb 15.
Just another great day of surf. Dropping NW swell - but still excellent surf.



WHY?!?

Cypher Vision - A Short Film

Wow! Surfing at 1000 frames per second.

Sunday, February 14, 2010



Really good today - a bit crowded, but I got my share.




I love this wave and am lucky to be able to surf here 3 or 4 days a week.





























Sunday, February 7, 2010

Blue Tarp Surfing

This is what I should have been doing today!

Jan 29th -30th - 31st

Good, Better, Best.

Been sick with the flu for several days; just coming out of the fog.