Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Today was unreal. I paddled out at 5:50am; I was the only one on the beach. I surfed till 6:30 before Dave and Pete showed up. Then the 3 of us surfed until 7:00 before Chris and others began to arrive. I surfed in front of the shack pretty much by myself all morning until it was time to go to work at 8:00. Everyone at work is wondering about my shit eatin' grin. And to top it off I'm headed to Maui for 10 days on Saturday. Honolua Bay will be a nice change of pace.
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