Yesterday Afternoon

I did manage to get out yesterday afternoon after spending the morning with my granddaughters. I haven't been out for 26 days and was prepared for a mediocre session. But as luck would have it I paddled out to the point and right into a 200 yard head high leg burner.  It was inconsistent but I ended up with 8 really fun waves. Kanoa Igarashi paddled out right as I was going in (timing is everything). Dave said he was out in the morning too; Double Dipper.

Kanoa in the white wetsuit

Neglect

I've been neglecting my blog lately. Mostly because of business travel and I've been sick. I did manage to get down to uppers last Tuesday the 24th. It was a little too chocolaty for me (still coughing) but there were a few corners. Troy went for it!

Little To No Surf

Just singing to the choir, I know. There were some small waves last weekend but I tweaked my lower back and spent the weekend surfing the couch. It's the lack of activity that's killing me, so I started back up with yoga and other core exercises and some stretching to try and stay ahead of these nagging ailments. So much for my New Year's Resolution....
See you in the water soon.

Today's disaster

The New Normal

New Year's Resolution

Surf more, work less.
First one to paddle out and catch a wave at uppers in 2017. We had a small windswell to play with today, off shore flow and no crowd. Works for me.