Yesterday Afternoon

I did manage to get out yesterday afternoon after spending the morning with my granddaughters. I haven't been out for 26 days and was prepared for a mediocre session. But as luck would have it I paddled out to the point and right into a 200 yard head high leg burner.  It was inconsistent but I ended up with 8 really fun waves. Kanoa Igarashi paddled out right as I was going in (timing is everything). Dave said he was out in the morning too; Double Dipper.

Kanoa in the white wetsuit