Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, January 1, 2019
Well, 2019 Is Off To A Slow Cold Start
If only there was a little more swell. Nothing over chest high, hard off shores, 60ᣞ water and 59ᣞ air. I'm so glad I brought a 9' longboard cuz the waves were soft and slow.
Happy New Year!
I didn't turn on my watch for the first 30 minutes of the sesh.
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