Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, March 9, 2018
Yesterday
Glassy shoulder high waves, sunshine and light crowd conditions. What more could you ask for?
How lucky are we to have the freedom and opportunity to surf this place. This morning was good too but I was on the phone till 9:00 which is when the south wind kicked up. First world problems for sure. Oh well there's always tomorrow.
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