Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Saturday, March 3, 2018
Waited For A Visual
Kept an eye on the cam this morning and decided to head down at 7:00 after the morning sickness passed. Turned out to be a really fun morning. Rode a new twin fin that I picked up from Manny Caro. The board is sick. I on the other hand am a kook; it took me a few waves before I dialed it in. I'm man enough to admit there were a couple of donkey's that I hope nobody saw. I think the Sea Shepard keels are too big for this board; switched them out for K1's when I got home. We'll see on the next session whenever that is, considering the crap forecast.
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