Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Sunday, September 3, 2017
Epic Morning
It was soooo good today, and not crowded at all that first hour. Air was 84 degrees in the parking lot at 5:30 in the morning. The water was a balmy 72. The waves were head high + and oily glassy, it was surreal.
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