A PSA

And This

What Is That?

Desperate Times Require Desperate Measures

Since I didn't get the invite to Kelly's private country club for the entitled elite, I chose to grovel in thigh high windswelly junk. Good thing it was just me and Rich.

Matt Warshaw said it best: We've traded magic for perfection, and it's heartbreaking". Link

So it looks like at least 2 more weeks of this flatness. Ugh!

But I got some paddling in today and rode a few bumps on the water. The water felt really warm, or maybe it was just because it was so much warmer than the air.....

Break Time

Done and Dusted

And in tiny inconsistent waves. Jordy would have smoked FT if a decent wave would have come through.
It was small today and the forecast is even smaller through the next couple of weeks.

 I had to leave early to watch this little munchkin play:

She's very intense

Waiting For The Circus To Leave Town

Don't get me wrong, I love watching the CT, I watch them all front to back. Maybe not all, the US Open and Brazil I'll only look at the highlights, unless it's firing, which is almost never. But the people that it brings to town turns our little slice of heaven into a total burnfest. I couldn't go yesterday, I have early meetings with my Irish colleagues on Thursdays, but I was watching the cam all morning. I was going to go today but just the thought of all these wannabes and CT hangers-on clogging up the line-up made me roll over and sleep in. Next year I think I'll time my vacation appropriately.

Yesterday

Meanwhile Dane Reynolds dropped another edit, he's the best free surfer out there!


'PREMIUM VIOLENCE' featuring Dane Reynolds from FORMER on Vimeo.

Yesterday and Today

I don't even want to talk about yesterday. It was glassy when I paddled out but by the time I was in the line-up the NW wind started and just got stronger throughout the morning, I was done by 7:15. Did I mention that it was all time crowded too? I won't post any pictures.

Today was 8% better in that there was no wind, but the sets were scarce and the crowd thick. At least I caught a couple of proper waves.

OK - here is one picture from yesterday

A Regular Burnfest

We Caught A Few

Waist to chest high glassy waves, not too crowded for the early crew. I love it when nobody shows up.

The Circus is in town