Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, June 24, 2016
Japan
I've spent the last week in Japan on business and am so ready to come home tomorrow. I know, I know, I'm missing an epic swell; but one thing's for sure with mother ocean: another wave will come. See you Sunday.
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