Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, June 23, 2015
Crossed Up
Three small swells this morning: a S swell, a SSW swell and a WNW wind swell all jumbled up together. I only caught about 10 waves, but most of them were pretty good, especially that left handed grinder. There was one exception: a late take off in the foam where I had to abandon ship. Doh!
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