Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, June 1, 2015
Birthday & Anniversary
Age is relative. However, the older you get the more you have to push yourself to get out there. Today is my 47th anniversary since I first entered the ocean with a surfboard. I know because it was my 13th birthday. My Dad bought me a 9-6 Weber with a set of wood racks for $40. I don't have any pictures of it but about a year later I cut the middle out of it, used a broomstick as dowels to glue the two halves together and glassed it back up. Ta-Da! My first short board; with a big D fin. Doh! It wasn't long till I saved up enough for a proper shortboard.
Today was shoulder high, off-shore, warmer water and not too many early risers.
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