Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, May 27, 2015
Slightly Bigger
Another fun morning. Not as many people that first hour which we took full advantage of. There were some playful dolphins in the line up today. Check the second half of the attached video; courtesy of Surfline.
Here's one that swung wide and nobody was there to catch it
The reason nobody caught that wide one is because I was no longer out there when you shot your video! And, yeah, I remember the dolphin wave. The only cool thing about that wave was watching the dolphins surf it with me. Otherwise, I was behind it most of the time. The locals dominate! Thx for posting it, John! BTW, you didn't miss much today. More inconsistent and lumpier. Yesterday was much better.
The reason nobody caught that wide one is because I was no longer out there when you shot your video! And, yeah, I remember the dolphin wave. The only cool thing about that wave was watching the dolphins surf it with me. Otherwise, I was behind it most of the time. The locals dominate! Thx for posting it, John! BTW, you didn't miss much today. More inconsistent and lumpier. Yesterday was much better.
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