There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Saturday, February 7, 2015

Criminal

Is it me or are we having more and more contests at uppers. So many good waves going un-ridden today. The contest started at 7, so I was paddling north like everybody else to clear the line-up for the spoiled brats and caught a long one into the bay just before the contest started.  So I paddled over to 5-0's and caught a few soft mushy waves and called it a day. Earlier I had caught a wave and was paddling back out when a guy on a maroon longboard went over the falls right in front of me! The last thing I saw before I duck dove as deep as possible was the 12" skag coming right at me. When I came up on the other side the log was 15' further out than Mr. Over-the-falls. It must have launched out the back. Sheesh!



















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