Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, December 9, 2014
Slo-Mo
Soft and slow. Should have brought the big board. I felt clumsy and out of shape today. It really wasn't as bad as these pictures but the tide was rising fast, I was a little behind schedule and couldn't sacrifice the time.
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