Today, against my better judgement, I hit it even though the buoys were only 1.3 and 1.0. Then I paddled out even though I didn't see anything over belly high. The conditions were epic. The waves were really weak, but you can't score if you don't go. Maybe tomorrow....
As soon as I saw 4 longboarders suiting up, I knew it was time to go. |
Those "longboarders" suiting up have been surfing here for years and shown nothing but respect and shared waves with anyone in the water, no matter what equipment they chose for that day.
ReplyDeleteMaybe so, but then it is the rare exception...
ReplyDelete