6 - 12 inches bigger than yesterday. But still only a 3 on the 10 point scale; only cuz the conditions were perfect.
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, September 30, 2014
Monday, September 29, 2014
Took A Pass On The Weekend
Had a few munchkins over on Sat & Sun who required my full attention:
Today, against my better judgement, I hit it even though the buoys were only 1.3 and 1.0. Then I paddled out even though I didn't see anything over belly high. The conditions were epic. The waves were really weak, but you can't score if you don't go. Maybe tomorrow....
Today, against my better judgement, I hit it even though the buoys were only 1.3 and 1.0. Then I paddled out even though I didn't see anything over belly high. The conditions were epic. The waves were really weak, but you can't score if you don't go. Maybe tomorrow....
As soon as I saw 4 longboarders suiting up, I knew it was time to go. |
Friday, September 26, 2014
I Was Going No Matter What
Tuesday, September 23, 2014
Sunday, September 21, 2014
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