Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, May 16, 2014
Smoke On The Water
A bit of a Cliché but it fits. Lots of smoke and ash around this morning. Paddled out at 4:30, Mark, Greg and Ivan were already out there. Waves were chest to head high and super playful (the bay was the way). Not much of a crowd either. I had a really good seshion except for the one faceplant. Don't know what happend, I made the take off and was coming off the bottom and then BOOM I was on my face. Kook.
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