Surfing is basically a selfish sport. It’s all about your interaction with the
wave. Yes, it’s nice to see your buds
get a good wave but your primary focus is always on position for the next
wave. And from time to time your lust
for the next wave overpowers the etiquette particle in your brain and someone
gets burned. Sorry Richard I owe you
one.
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, September 30, 2013
Sunday, September 29, 2013
Not As Good As It Looks
Saturday, September 28, 2013
Super Fun
Not too crowded, belly to shoulder high, warm water, off shore and chilly air. What more could you ask for?
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