Livin’ The Dream

Every once in a while you recognize just how fortunate you are to have the privilege of surfing this place.  To have the means, the health and the physical ability to get out there.  It's humbling when you dwell on it. Anyway....

Pretty damn fun this morning even though the water temp dropped to 61°.   The waves were chest to head high, glassy conditions and moderately crowded.   I sat a little inside and picked off the rollers since the sets were not too consistent.  But when the sets came it was usually 5 or 6 waves.