Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
The Word Is Out!
Yep, south swell = crowded conditions. The first hour was pretty fun cuz I snagged a
few set waves before the hoards moved in.
The second hour I sat in uppers Garcia territory and caught a few choice
lefts that were being ignored. My wave
in was not too graceful, hit a ball of kelp on a backside bottom turn and…… you
know the rest of the story.
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