That's Doug out front |
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Stupid Wind
But we made the best of it.
Paddled out at 5:35, with a SSE wind at about 10 knots, by 6:00 it laid
down and almost got glassy. But by 8:00
it started picking up a little and by the time I got back to my truck the flag
at Carl’s Jr was hanging straight down. Waves
were chest to head high and pretty lined up; but if you caught the right one….
Saturday, April 27, 2013
Small, Fat and Slow
Friday, April 26, 2013
TGIF
Thank God It's Fading, the swell that is. In between swells is always the best, less crowds with fun playful waves. Only 5 of us in the water the first hour and only a dozen when I left. Sure it was smaller, but there were still some gems to be had.
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Crowd Pleaser
Changed boards today and brought the Proctor Lil Rascal down. A little more volume than my HGD Blackstar
which is what I rode yesterday. Caught a
ton more waves. Today was about the same
size but a lot more lined up. I’m told
I burned someone on my ride in. I was
further out and standing up when someone spun around and took off behind
me. Nice try.
Florida Joe |
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
The Word Is Out!
Yep, south swell = crowded conditions. The first hour was pretty fun cuz I snagged a
few set waves before the hoards moved in.
The second hour I sat in uppers Garcia territory and caught a few choice
lefts that were being ignored. My wave
in was not too graceful, hit a ball of kelp on a backside bottom turn and…… you
know the rest of the story.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)