Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, January 21, 2013
Sixty Minutes
That’s all the time I had.Paddled out at the crack with Nick, who was
riding a new 5’8” McCallum (sick).Exited at 7:25.Waves were a bit inconsistent, belly to shoulder high and pretty calm
winds. Still colder than a Witch's tit in a brass bra. Caught five waves, took some
quick pictures and boogied to work.
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