Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Saturday, April 7, 2012
Michael Peterson
I've
been out of touch the last few weeks with all my travels and just read that one
of my childhood idols past away. He was
only a few years older than me but was a phenomenal surfer. I must have seen Morning Of The Earth 5
or 6 times in ’72.
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