No Visit From Sir Edward

The coastal eddy never materialized this morning.  Paddled out at 5:40, there was a little texture at first but then it just glassed off.  Plenty of head high waves and not too many early birds.  Only surfed for an hour and a half as I needed to be on the phone at 8:00. Too bad cuz it was really good. 

Look who's back!

Some Swell From The South

A little bump on the buoys overnight provided some clean shoulder high plus waves for the morning.   It's nice that the water is finally warming up into the low 60's.   I'm sure we won't be lonely tomorrow.

Slop

I didn't go today but Steve said it was weak and all windswell.

Doonbeg, Ireland

A friend of mine on the west coast of Ireland sent me this picture of Doonbeg. I surfed here about 5 years ago although it wasn't as good as the attached picture. Getting to the beach requires running across a golf course. Good crack.

Bigger and Funner

Belly to shoulder high with a few head high waves here and there.  Paddled out at 5:45 and surfed alone for the first 45 minutes.  After that there were only 3 of us until I got out at 7:30 for an 8:00 phone call.  Water seemed a little colder and the wind cycled between calm, off-shore and south all morning.    Can’t go again until the weekend, but the next two days are looking a little windy anyway.

Dane Reynolds

I never get tired of watching Dane Reynolds surf:


Dane Reynolds’ “Excerpt” from Quiksilver Australia on Vimeo.

A Lonely Morning.

Belly to shoulder high, a little inconsistent, 60˚ water, 52˚ air, off-shore, clear skys and wait for it……….

Surfed pretty much by myself in front of the shack from 5:45 till 8:00. 

Then Corey and one of his friends paddled out.   There were 2 guys way up on the point but the bay was way better.  Stayed out till 8:30 or so.   Took a few quick pictures, as I was super late for work.   Too bad a storm is moving in tonight.

Corey

Lowers was definitely bigger - That's probably Dave on that left.....

Groundhog Day

Pretty much the same as yesterday except a little smaller and more peeps.  Nice to be wearing a 3/2 again.

Waiting for the 2 week cure time to complete

Lite Crowd For A Saturday

Yep, belly to head high waves, warmer water (60 or so), glassy conditions and a super lite crowd.   The bay was the way this morning, it was way better than the point.  A great way to start the day.  

The bay was firing

I hate when that happens

Flawed Board Selection

I looked at the buoys this morning and didn’t see anything too spectacular.   Oceanside buoy was 2.0 from the WNW and 1.6 from the S, Dana and Camp Pendleton buoys were smaller.   So I decided to take the big board down for a change.  Too bad because it was chest to head high this morning.  Got plenty of waves but it would have been nice to be on short board.  Some of my buddies think so too : - ).

I hate the doggies

Less Is Less

A lot less consistent, a tad smaller and a little funkified at first.    I think I only got 6 or 7 waves in 2 hours.   After my first wave it shut down for half hour or so.   Then it just got too crowded for the inconsistency.  Towards the end I paddled deep into the inside part of the bay and caught a couple of choice waves.  Not the most memorable of sessions; but maybe it’s just me.