Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
Cold And Puny
Another uncrowded day and for good reason. Small inconsistent belly to maybe chest high waves. Glad I brought the big board today. It was cold as hell on the beach after I exited the water around 7:30; hands were really aching.
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