A real swell, with real waves. Wind was off shore, water 60˚ and the first
hour there was less than 10 people out.
Even with the 7.0 high tide the waves powered right through. I felt a little rusty today since it’s been a
full week since I last surfed and my gut was a little sore too. Probably from overeating yesterday☻. Even
though I ate it a couple of times, I still had some fun ones.
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