Happy Halloween

I've got about a week to go before I can get back into the water.  I'm feeling and doing better every day, but I've got to tell you, getting old isn't for sissies.

Best Possible Outcome

My Surgeon reviewed my pathology report with me yesterday. Bottom line is the cancer was contained within the prostate. The lymph nodes and ancillary tissues were clean. So there will be no additional treatment modalities for me; just close observation.

I had the catheter removed last Tuesday; so glad to see that intruder go. Now I just need to complete the healing process; another two weeks or so.

I’m so very grateful to all of you for your prayers and well wishes.

On top of all this my fourth grandchild was born today, a seven pound 10 ounce little girl.

I’ve got a lot to be thankful for these days.

See you in the water soon.

Progress

Feeling better every day. Still sore but have been able to cut way back on the pain meds; should be off them early next week after they pull the catheter. I can’t wait for that thing to be gone (Tuesday at 11:00). The doctor wanted me walking 3 miles a day by the weekend, which was tough to do Friday, not so bad yesterday and today I already have 2 miles under my belt. Got a big bruise developing on my right side and my scrote is the size of a baseball (don’t worry no more pictures). Can’t wait to get back in the water. The doc told me last Wednesday after surgery that I should be able to surf again after three weeks as long as I felt I could do it without too much pain from the incisions. Everything inside should be healed by then. If I continue to mend at this same pace, I should be good to go by November 9th.

Slow-mo Water

Las Palmeras

Las Palmeras Surf Resort from Zachary Hill on Vimeo.

Uppers From The Tower

My wife drove me to trestles and waited off Basilone while I walked to the Lifeguard Tower on the bluff to take a couple of pictures.   A little too foggy to make things out but it looked somewhat fun.  A little on the small side, but Uppers was definately better and less crowded than Lowers.   The boys tell me it was pretty fun at dawn.

Dane

Dane Renynolds tearin it up on a bar of soap:

Night Surf

Here's a cool video:


Nightsurf from iker elorrieta on Vimeo.

Home Yesterday

Got home from the hospital yesterday.  It's been a rough couple of days but feeling much better today.  The surgeon says it was a textbook case and that there were no complications.  Still pretty swollen and sore but like I said feeling much better today.  I have to have a catheter for a week too.  That's a new experience for me, but not as bad as I thought it would be.  Thank God for my wife, she's been taking such good care of me and my daughters have been very helpful too.   Here's a view of my incisions and swollen belly, not too bad for 48 hours later.

Down Time

Sometimes you have to take some down time from surfing.

I got some really bad news earlier this month. I was diagnosed with prostate cancer.

The good news is that it looks like the cancer has not spread outside the prostate. That makes my condition highly curable. But the bottom line is the offending body part needs to be removed ASAP. My surgery is tomorrow at 1:00. The doctor I’ve picked to do the surgery is world renowned and right here in our own back yard at UCI Medical Center.

The recovery time for the surgery is surprisingly short and with any luck I should be back in the line-up by Thanksgiving, maybe sooner. A week or so after surgery I should be ok to walk down to uppers to take pictures, hang out and torture myself.

It’s a journey I didn’t ask for but am now fully committed to take. I will keep you updated on my progress. I’ll try to not over-share the gruesome details and there will be absolutely no pictures of my private parts; no sense in confirming my shortcomings ☻.

Do yourself a big favor and get an annual PSA.

Meager Leftovers

The first 45 minutes had a few waves and then it just petered out.

 

Change

After yesterday's fiasco I decided to change boards (6-0 uber plank), change wetsuits and try not to sit in the pack.   Hard to do, when the sets keep calling you.    But I pretty much hung inside towards the bay and got plenty of waves there.

The bay was the way this morning

Didn't make it

Today Sucked

For me anyway.  Only got four waves in 2+ hours.  Too crowded and too many people sitting inside clogging up things.   Tom had the magnet today.

 

Andy

Fun Playful Waves Every Now and Then

The sunrise was unbelievable, red and pink Sirius clouds. The water was warm, it was off-shore and every once in a while a shoulder high wave would roll through. I was expecting more but since I had the magnet today I got plenty of waves.

Drove PCH To Work This Morning

Stopped at Scotsman’s Cove to take a picture of the full moon. While standing on the bluff I saw this older gray haired guy suiting up by himself for some waist to chest high little nuggets. Lucky! Instead, 15 minutes later I was sitting in a conference room discussing development strategies for new product automation equipment. I’d rather be surfing……….

The Weather Was Extraordinary

Crystal clear morning, off shore and warmer water. I was hopeful that one of the three small swells in the water would deliver some waves, maybe even double up on each other. That was disappointing, but it was nice to just be in the water bantering with friends. We’re so lucky that we get to enjoy the ocean by immersing ourselves in it and occasionally glide across its surge.

Smaller And A Little Swampy

Still some fun waves to be had but not nearly as good as the last three days.  It was a little better at dawn.

Nick



Too deep - didn't make it



Sooo Good Today

Another day of overhead waves.   How good was it?   Looky here:

Tommy