The surf was the same old belly to chest high windswell, strong off shore flow and cold water (60˚ maybe less!). I actually wore my 0.5mil hood until the sun came up, no more Exostosis for me.
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| Pelican or Turkey? |
Thursday, August 4, 2011
Surfing Is Dangerous
Especially when someone takes off on a wave, eats it on the take off and shoves his board in your direction rather than holding on to it. I was well past him but he managed to hit me anyway. So I protect my board rather than my head; smart. The idiot’s board hit me in the back of the head which in turn bounced my nose off the deck of my own board. I actually saw stars. There was a lot of blood and at first and I thought it was coming from the back of my head. As it turns out I had a small impact split on the bridge of my nose. At least my board came away unscathed.
The surf was the same old belly to chest high windswell, strong off shore flow and cold water (60˚ maybe less!). I actually wore my 0.5mil hood until the sun came up, no more Exostosis for me.
The surf was the same old belly to chest high windswell, strong off shore flow and cold water (60˚ maybe less!). I actually wore my 0.5mil hood until the sun came up, no more Exostosis for me.
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Lame. I had someone do that to me about 9 months ago, but the nose of their board went through the top of my foot, nearly severing the tendons. ER, and a long healing, I now have a nasty scar to show for it. Fun times ;-)
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