Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, August 15, 2011
Good Enough
Glassy, warm water, chest high waves, and moderate crowd conditions. I actually caught quite a few waves. Wasn’t really motivated this morning because of a stupid summer cold I picked up. But was sure glad I made the effort as it turned out.
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