Everyday Should Be Like Today

We had a surprise increase in swell today which kept the crowd factor to a minimum. Paddled out at 5:45 and caught a half dozen waves before 6:15 with just a handfull of guys out.   Waves were overhead and clean.   Surfed till 8:00.  

Sitting in the airport for a quick trip to Chicago.  The good news is I got my upgrade for a change.   First class baby!

Too bad I didn't take this pic a second before - it was pretty funny

Gutless Windswell

More of the same weak windswell.   Excellent conditions and not too crowded.  Paddled out at 5:45, surfed till 8:00 and only had a handful of decent waves.  You can’t have it all.   Or as my Dad used to say “ You haven’t suffered enough”.   He was a 16 year old Dutchman when WWII broke out.   He was right.

Chest High Windswell

Weak overlapping peaks, 65˚ water and a slight offshore flow.  Paddled out at 5:45, surfed til 7:30.  Not too many people which was a good thing.   Only a few connected into the bay; a lot of one turn waves.   

Small Crumbly Peaks

Started out glassy, but a NW breeze began building from 6:30 on. Waves were thigh to belly high and the water cooled down a tad; 65˚ or so. Honestly, you didn’t miss a thing. Glad I brought the big board.

Tepid Water, Off Shore Flow and Shoulder High

Not to many takers either. Was running late this morning and didn’t get into the water until just before 6:00; but still the first one out. Wasn’t expecting much today and almost passed. I’m glad I came down and really glad I chose to ride the short board.

Tom

Corey

Corey - same wave

Warm Windy and Weak

That's it in a nutshell:

Looks like it's going to be windy in the morning for a few days

South Wind

Eddy the spoiler was on point this morning adding a little texture to the inconsistent waist – chest high surf. Caught a half dozen waves and called it a day. And just to add to the morning’s enjoyment I returned to my vehicle with a flat tire. Rather than call AAA and wait around for an hour, I decided to change it myself. Took about half an hour. Other than that it’s been a good day – so far.

♫♪ Always look at the bright side of your life ♫♪

Cardiff Kook

I've been down and out with a really bad chest cold, even took a day off  from work this week, probably the first sick day in 5 years.  So while the surf is good I've been grounded.   Maybe Friday.   In the meantime here's a new twist on the Cardiff Kook, arguably the best dress down of the kook so far.  



Photo lifted from Surfy Surfy

 

Good Enough

Glassy, warm water, chest high waves, and moderate crowd conditions. I actually caught quite a few waves. Wasn’t really motivated this morning because of a stupid summer cold I picked up. But was sure glad I made the effort as it turned out.

Two Days Of Surfing

With fifty+ of my closest Friends ☻

Saturday:

Sunday:

Tommy

How did this one get by everyone?

They were even arriving by boat

Nice

Not The Most Memorable Session

Paddled out at 5:30 and caught a couple of head high waves in the dark. By 6:00 there were 15/20 guys on the point. Caught a really good one all the way into the bay, and then a nice lined up left. But after that I only caught a few mediocre waves here and there. It was pretty packed and the incoming tide pretty much put the kybosh on the bigger sets.

Today’s Haiku

Dark, glassy and fun

Belly to head high zippers

Sharing is caring

Old School is still cool (surfapig.com)

I Missed A Good One Today

Nursing another sore back and had to pass today. I’m told it was memorable. Didn’t post yesterday taking care of some family stuff.  Here’s a couple of snaps from Sunday.

Typical Saturday in the Summer

Good waves, crowded conditions.   I think Lowers was less crowded today.   Is it Winter yet?