Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
“Sometimes…..
When you're lonely, you really feel alive and you feel like you know who you are”. -Unknown
Paddled out at 5:15 without a soul in sight. Trunks, vest, 70˚ plus water, dead calm wind and waist to chest high waves. Surfed until 7:00 all by myself !?!
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