Doho

Went longboarding at Doheny this morning with my son-in-law for some rainy butt high waves.  Water was a cool 60 degrees or so and it was mostly glassy in between downpours.  Sorry, no pictures today, it was raining pretty hard when we got out of the water.

More Blustery Weather

Took a pass today, more wind and less swell.  Here’s what it looked like:

Not Exactly A Classic Day

Rather than me whining about everything that was wrong with today’s session, I’ll let the pictures tell the story……

A Hint of a Swell

A bit inconsistent but there were some chest to head high waves this morning. Water was toasty warm, too warm for the 3/2 e-bomb I was wearing. Paddled out in the dark just before 5:30 and surfed till 7:45. The wind started out calm and turned slightly off shore around 6:30. I hung a little inside and towards the bay and got more waves than I thought I would. Everyone was desperate for waves today and it showed. Tomorrow should be interesting as the swell peaks; I don’t think we’ll be lonely.

Jerry taking advantage of the situation

Tim

Tommy

The bay is the way

Ever wonder what these commuters think when they see us in the water as they pass by? 

Got My Wish

Yeah, be careful what you wish for. Yesterday I said I was getting tired of riding the big board. So the wave gods send Sir Edward of the South to make it so I didn’t have to. Took some pictures in the dark this morning with camera on nighttime mode. Obviously I need a tripod for this.

Micro Surf

Knee to chest high soft shouldered waves today with a little cooler water temp; 67˚ or so. Getting tired of riding the big board. Maybe the wave gods will have pity on us soon.

Interesting article on the San Clemente surf ghetto.   That tall skinny guy Slim, lives across the street from me.   I've known him since he was a kid.   My girls refer to him as "Crazy Matt".   Let's just say there's never a dull moment in the neighborhood when Slim's around.

http://www.ocweekly.com/2011-07-21/news/surf-ghetto-los-obreros-san-clemente/

Simple Pleasures

Small belly to chest high waves, with an occasional head high zipper. Plenty of fun since there were only a few early risers and a big truck overturned on the SB 5 right at Christianitos just before 6am, causing a 10 mile back up. Surfed from 5:30 to just about 8am.

Oldtimers

Forgot to post yesterday.   A lot going on on the homefront.  

It was surprisingly good yesterday.   We had waist to shoulder high waves, warm water and not too much of a crowd.   Surfed from 5:30 to 8:00 and got a ton of waves.

Today I met up with a business associate from Kansas City who was on vacation this week in HB.   Took him and his 17 year old son surfing at Brookhurst Street.   Waves were knee to waist high and terrible shape.  Typical beach break closed out south swell lines.   No pictures of today's fiasco but here are a few from yesterday.

Timbo

Better Than Nuttin'

Let me start with how warm the water is; 72˚ maybe more. Waves were small, belly to chest high with an occasional shoulder high wave, nothing to write home about. But it sure was good to get wet today after being slammed at work since Monday. The 5 day forecast is downright depressing.

Waves

We can’t look away when we see one.  Whether it’s a result of a bicycle tire that ran through a rain puddle or the real deal.   It can elicit an emotional response, move you right down to your soul, as you imagine riding it.   Add to that the memory of a little too much sun and that crackling feeling after the salt water dries on your skin.   And now you’ve got the fever; and the only cure is paddle out and catch some.   Too bad it’s flat!

Jet Lag

Small belly to chest high waves, 70ish water and a slight off shore flow.   Not too many people making the effort today.

Back In The USA

I know, I know, I missed a good week of surf.  I checked the cams a couple of times.

This was one of "those" business trips.   A different city and hotel every night.  Frankfurt, Stutgart, Mainz, Copenhagen and Darmstadt.  Writing this on the way home from DFW, since I had little to no internet service or time to post while away.   Here's a few pics:

Stuttgart

Mainz - Bridge over the Rhine

The end of a busy day

One of the only buildings left standing in Darmstadt after WWII

Frankfurt from the air

The Word Is Out

A small boost in swell and crowd.  Chest to head high waves, somewhat disorganized overlapping peaks, but some connecting all the way through.   In the water at 5:20 and surfed until 7:30.  

Packing for a hopefully e coli free business trip to the EU - next post will be from Stuttgart.

This guy jacked two guys to get this wave