Just Another Day in Paradise

Mom always told me there would be days like this.....

Phil and I definitely saw some decent sets as we suited up. The water was cold for August (62ish), the air was 58, the fog rolled in, the lulls were 15min+, there were very few set waves like we saw on the beach and the crowd factor was still an issue.  I only caught 4 or 5 decent waves.   But as soon as I got out of the water a really nice set swung south and pealed into the bay. Go figure.

You know it's the bad days that make the good days seem so much better.

Strange Morning

Yesterday it was an angry crowd, today was a circus. From the super agro guy in a 4/3 fullsuit, hood, booties and gloves to the half dozen clowns sitting way inside creating a slalom course when the sets came, to the guys laying too far back on their boards and trying for every hump that came through. There were over 30 guys out; I can’t wait for winter.   I did manage to get a half dozen waves or so but by 7:15 I was over it.

Sunday Funday

A bit crowded but managed to encourage some sharing ;)

Saturday

I lied, got up early and paddeled out in the dark. Still a bit drained out but more consistent and sets chest to head high.   Greg got the wave of the morning.

TGIF

The surf increased a tad today.  A little drained out but worth the effort.    I'm sure that when the tide filled in it got much better.   I may go a little later in the morning tomorrow.

The plank arrived today.

Thursday

Almost went home dry, but glad I paddled out.  Waist to chest high waves - spent the morning in the bay catching the ones that swung to the south.   Took some really lousy pics cuz I had to get to the hospital; my daughter is having a baby today.   Grandchild #3!  I wonder if Mike B. is at the same hospital?

I got a good pic of the surfliner.

Behind the Cardiff Kook Shark Attack

Behind The "KOOK" Attack- InnerViews from http://vimeo.com/apeel on Vimeo.

This one is going viral.

Yesteryear

I've been searching and collecting historic pictures of south OC for a while now, here are some of my favorites:

Green Surfboard Transport
We should all wear bow ties and white shoes to the beach

Way Back When

Laguna 1902

Aliso Beach Camp 1930s

Back in the Day

SUPs Are Nothing New

Killer Dana - Not Sure when - 1950?

Laguna 1939

A Slow Bleed

Smaller lined up overlapping peaks, some makeable sections:

Ireland

I was talking to some of the guys at breakfast the other morning about Ireland. Here are some cool pictures I've take of the northwest of Ireland over the years:

Some of you guys could use some help :) 

Directions to Santa Ana?

Yeats' grave in Sligo

More Ireland

A Guinness with a hand made shamrock using the tap

The view of Clew Bay from Crough Patrick

A lonely road near Achill Island

Ireland

Down Patrick Head

A left I surfed back in 2007 near Down Patrick Head

The Atlantic Coast

Groundhog Day

Same as yesterday, but a tad smaller.   Due to family commitments I had to cut it short.

Saturday

Crowded, lined up, shoulder high, rolly, glassy waves.   Got up late 5:15, almost passed, but was glad I got wet.

After four days in the mid-west watching surfline and crying in my beer I finally got to surf some of the leftovers this morning.   Somebody's got to pay the bills and travel is in my job description.

Today was 4-5 foot, somewhat drained out in the first hour but really fun playful waves.    I think the first Picture is Matt Parker.

Sunday

You know you're the first one on the beach when you walk your bike through the bushes and get a face full of spider web.   I hate that.  

Paddled out a little after 5am into some peaky head high waves.   Much more consistent than the past few days.  Nice warm water, a spectacular dolfin show and plenty of waves to go around.   Had to leave after a couple of hours to head out of town for a trade show.   Just in time to miss the next swell. 

Here's Phil and Tom:

Saturday 7-17-10

Windswell, that's all there was on tap for today.   After the crowd filled in I drifted into the bay a bit and picked off several that swung wide and realed across.    I also had an epic fail on a set wave going left, I hope nobody saw that one.

July 16th

Small inconsistent glassy surf.    I put my two hours in and jetted off to work.   It was a really cool morning though.   There was lightning just before dawn, a killer sunrise and a partial rainbow to the north.   Did anyone see last night's rainbow?

Below you see a strange species known as hootasaurus longboaratops (hooting longboarders) they were in their indigenous habitat hooting and hollering at every wave they cut each other off on.   Thank God they didn't drift over to the point: