Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Monday, August 2, 2010
Strange Morning
Yesterday it was an angry crowd, today was a circus. From the super agro guy in a 4/3 fullsuit, hood, booties and gloves to the half dozen clowns sitting way inside creating a slalom course when the sets came, to the guys laying too far back on their boards and trying for every hump that came through. There were over 30 guys out; I can’t wait for winter. I did manage to get a half dozen waves or so but by 7:15 I was over it.
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I concur. I was out from 5:30 till 7:15 as well. Haven't been out in a crowd like that in awhile, even there. Not a lot of flowing surfwise going on out there either. I counted 38 when I got out. All on potato chips(except one "matey"). Still... a few, but cold for a spring suit.
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