Damn! That Was Fun

Smaller than yesterday but more consistent with playful makeable sections.  Light crowd, shoulder high sets and warm water.  Caught a ton of waves on my Proctor 6-0 Fang.  A good time was had by all.  Too bad the forecast isn’t looking too good for the next few days, we’re going into a warming trend.

Kayo getting robbed 

I'm sure words were exchanged on that one

Kayo by himself this time

Guess Who? - Courtesy of Surfline

Balmy and Surreal

I looked at all the forecasts last night and determined that Sir Edward was not finished with us yet.  But when I got up this morning it sure felt like offshore.  Checked on line and bolted for Uppers.  I was about 15 minutes behind schedule, so it was already light when I pulled up on the sand.   Just me and some chest high little waves.   Paddled out at 5:45 and surfed all by myself till 7:30. Actually, I wasn’t completely alone a pod of Dolphins hung around for a while.  I rode a wave with one of the bigger Dolphins in front of me out on the shoulder.  Epic!  Water felt like 67° and the air was about the same.  When the sun came out it was downright hot.  The tide started slowing things down around 8:00 but I was done by then anyway.  As I was wrapping it up Florida Joe paddled out in trunks.  Definitely the right call.

Empty lineup before I paddled out

Yours Truly all alone - Courtesy of Surfline

Life Is Cruel

Pulled up to the lot and got really amped cuz there were almost no cars and the flag at Carl Jr looked to be offshore.  Hauled ass down to find Jeff just standing there looking at chest high waves with a 15 knot south wind on it.   We were toying with the idea of going out anyway but then the wind started to gust.   Went home dry.

A Little Lumpy and Sectiony

With some leftover size.   The first hour was pretty damn good, the second hour was a little more lully.  I missed the last couple of days cuz I was slammed at work.  Heard there were some big sets and maximum capacity crowd.  To be expected.  Picked up a brand new Lost RNF with XTR construction on Craigslist yesterday for about half of what it would sell for in a shop.  She’s a keeper. 

Stupid Wind

But we made the best of it.  Paddled out at 5:35, with a SSE wind at about 10 knots, by 6:00 it laid down and almost got glassy.  But by 8:00 it started picking up a little and by the time I got back to my truck the flag at Carl’s Jr was hanging straight down.  Waves were chest to head high and pretty lined up; but if you caught the right one…. 

That's Doug out front