Head high plus waves, glassy and smooth conditions but a little wally on the early morning drained out tide. I only caught a handful of waves, but they were good ones. It really started looking good as I was leaving.....
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Wednesday, May 6, 2015
Tuesday, May 5, 2015
Suffering
Saturday, May 2, 2015
Shark Sighting Today
I saw the fin first about 30 yards out to the SW around 6:00. Then a few minutes later Phil and Jeff saw it about 15 yards from where Jeff was sitting up on the point. Jeff nonchalantly paddled to the inside. Definitely a shark, the fin stood up out of the water about a foot, maybe more, and it just cruised along in a straight line. No more sightings after that.
Waves were actually fun the first hour even though it still had a little bump on it, then it started backing off and the cold water started getting to me. I knew I shoulda worn the 4/3. Got a massive cramp in my calf and couldn't function after that.
Just bellied one in.....
Waves were actually fun the first hour even though it still had a little bump on it, then it started backing off and the cold water started getting to me. I knew I shoulda worn the 4/3. Got a massive cramp in my calf and couldn't function after that.
Just bellied one in.....
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| The Oakley Pro wraps up today. |
Friday, May 1, 2015
Busy Working
No time to surf this week, it wasn't that good anyway, except I heard yesterday was decent. Today we had a lumpy and bumpy windswell to deal with along with a blast of cold water. The pier said 60° but it had to be less than that. All in all not a terrible morning as I managed to catch a 8 or 10 waves and only ate it once (in front of everybody Arrggg).

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