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Dave |
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, April 12, 2013
Weak
The surf and my ankle; pretty inconsistent. Looks like it's going to be another week or two, I just couldn't apply much pressure. Oh well, better to wait than re-injure it. It was only Steve, Dave and myself for the first hour. Steve just had back surgery, Dave has tendinitis in his shoulder and you know my story. The three amigos trying to surf through our injuries. We need help.
Sunday, April 7, 2013
Today's Pics
Saturday, April 6, 2013
Photos
A dry morning for me. But went down to take pictures. Didn't take too many as it wasn't very good and there was too much drizzle for my good camera. I was using a Canon T3i with a 55-250mm lens. Had a hard time with the auto-focus with the overcast conditions. The surf wasn't very good, smaller than yesterday, some south wind on it and a little crossed up by the competing groundswell and windswell.
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Jim |
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Hawaiian Phil Sequence |
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A duck with a Carolina blue beak |
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Tar Heel |
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The Estuary behind the trestle |
Friday, April 5, 2013
Premature
So I’ve made tremendous progress with my ankle this
week. Lots of exercises, Ice, Advil
3X/day, Yoga and elevation when resting.
So, in my infinite wisdom, I
thought I was ready to give it a go. Wrongo Bongo!
Caught a couple of waves and could barely put the needed pressure on the
ankle required to effectively surf. Fell
off getting up on the third wave and then just paddled in so I wouldn’t reinjure
the damn thing. I’ll probably go down Saturday and Sunday with
the good camera and take pictures, but I’m looking at least another week of recuperation. Oh,
the surf? Head high, super lully with a
moderate crowd. Air 55°, water 60° and calm winds.
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