There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Friday, December 23, 2011

Late Start Again

Missed the morning session - forgot to set the alarm and my wife was very lightfooted going down stairs with the dogs.   I think it was a set-up.  Didn't wake up until 7am.  But did make the effort this evening.  Belly to shoulder high and only a dozen guys out.  Started out glassy, then-off shore and finally from the NNE.







Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Lonely


Paddled out at 6:10 all by myself.   Air 40˚, water 58˚ and a stiff offshore wind.  It was slightly bigger than yesterday (waist to maybe shoulder high) and more consistent, not a lot but definitely more consistent.   A little swamped out with the 6.2 high tide peaking just before dawn, but I’m sure it got better as the tide dropped.   Just after  7:00 Troy and Phil paddled out.   Had to bail at 7:30 so I could be at an "important" meeting in Irvine by 9:00.  
Wore my new Isurus 4-3-4 wetsuit today.  This is absolutely the warmest wetsuit I’ve ever owned.   It fit me like a glove and basically felt like I was dry on the inside.   The closed cell Yamamoto neoprene is hydrophobic, so it’s not absorbing any water.  I highly recommend it.





Tuesday, December 20, 2011

It Was A Beautiful Sunrise


No cooperation from the waves.   It’s hard to ride a short board in weak waist to chest high waves when you weigh nearly 200lbs.  I did get lucky and caught the wave of the day, a nice shoulder high little zipper but the next half hour there was absolutely nothing.   Pretty much just paddled in.  A one wave set came in right after I got out. The pictures below are all the same wave. 




Monday, December 19, 2011

Loser

It wasn't happening this morning at Trestles.   Stood there for half an hour and this was the only set that rolled in.  Air was warm, wind a little funky.  Went to work dry.




Sunday, December 18, 2011

Yesterday's Fiasco

Too busy yesterday to post anything.  Surfed at dawn, cooked all day for a potluck Christmas party and then stayed out late, late for me anyway.   Saturday's surf was pretty small, knee to waist high and the kelp was thick with the lower tide.  I'll post pictures later, I can't find the transfer cable for my camera. Might have left it at work. Doh!  You can just look at Friday's pictures it was nearly the same.
The buoys are smaller this morning, think I'll sleep in.
Update: Here's the pics:
 


Friday, December 16, 2011

Next To Nothing


Did I go out – of course I did.  It was just Dave and me this morning.  The first hour had a few waves.   I actually caught one shoulder high wave which made the whole morning for me.  Later, I had to back out of another shoulder high wave because I wasn’t out far enough and the wave slapped me really hard on the back of the head. I deserved it.
Wore my new Isurus hood today.   Wow, what a difference.  This hood is my new best friend for the winter.  





Sunday, December 11, 2011

It Was Good and Cold

Enough about the cold.   The waves were fun, even with a 6.0 high tide at 8:30.  Glad I wasn't a kook today ;).




Saturday, December 10, 2011

Not Too Exciting Today

I've got plenty of excuses for my poor performance today.  Colder than a witch's tit.   Not much swell showing.  High tide. Haven't surfed in a week.  There was an eclipse of the moon.  Should have brought the big board. Etc. Etc. Bottom line: I was kook today.






Thursday, December 8, 2011

The Flatness Continues

Perfect conditions, absolutely no surf. Took the coast to work today - it was a lake.

Monday, December 5, 2011

A Brisk Start To The Day


Air: 38˚, water: 58˚, surf: belly to chest high (in between long lulls).  I’m going to say it was worth it, only because of the two or three chest high waves I caught after the tide dropped that reeled into the bay.  Tomorrow there’s a 5.3 high tide at dawn, not sure if I want to freeze my ass off again for swamped out little waves.  If I do I’ll be wearing my gloves for sure, my hands ached so bad after I got out of the water today I could barely take pictures.




 

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Glad I Slept In Today

It was 38˚ this morning in SJC, the buoys were the same as yesterday so I saw no reason to make the effort today.   Here's a frame grab from Surfline:


Saturday, December 3, 2011

A Windswelly Mess

You should have been here yesterday; I was☻.  Went home dry.







Friday, December 2, 2011

That’s What I’m Talkin’ About


Just a handful of us this morning.  Offshore, 60˚ water and belly to head high waves.   Way better than attending a corporate conference like I did the last two days.