Missed the morning session - forgot to set the alarm and my wife was very lightfooted going down stairs with the dogs. I think it was a set-up. Didn't wake up until 7am. But did make the effort this evening. Belly to shoulder high and only a dozen guys out. Started out glassy, then-off shore and finally from the NNE.
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, December 23, 2011
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Lonely
Paddled out at 6:10 all by myself. Air 40˚, water 58˚ and a stiff offshore
wind. It was slightly bigger than
yesterday (waist to maybe shoulder high) and more consistent, not a lot but definitely
more consistent. A little swamped out
with the 6.2 high tide peaking just before dawn, but I’m sure it got better as
the tide dropped. Just after 7:00 Troy and Phil paddled out. Had to bail at 7:30 so I could be at an "important" meeting in Irvine by 9:00.
Wore my new Isurus 4-3-4
wetsuit today. This is absolutely the
warmest wetsuit I’ve ever owned. It fit
me like a glove and basically felt like I was dry on the inside. The closed cell Yamamoto neoprene is hydrophobic,
so it’s not absorbing any water. I highly recommend it.
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
It Was A Beautiful Sunrise
No cooperation from the waves. It’s hard to ride a short board in weak
waist to chest high waves when you weigh nearly 200lbs. I did get lucky and caught the wave of the
day, a nice shoulder high little zipper but the next half hour there was
absolutely nothing. Pretty much just
paddled in. A one wave set came in right
after I got out. The pictures below are all the same wave.
Monday, December 19, 2011
Loser
It wasn't happening this morning at Trestles. Stood there for half an hour and this was the only set that rolled in. Air was warm, wind a little funky. Went to work dry.
Sunday, December 18, 2011
Yesterday's Fiasco
Too busy yesterday to post anything. Surfed at dawn, cooked all day for a potluck Christmas party and then stayed out late, late for me anyway. Saturday's surf was pretty small, knee to waist high and the kelp was thick with the lower tide. I'll post pictures later, I can't find the transfer cable for my camera. Might have left it at work. Doh! You can just look at Friday's pictures it was nearly the same.
The buoys are smaller this morning, think I'll sleep in.
Update: Here's the pics:
The buoys are smaller this morning, think I'll sleep in.
Update: Here's the pics:
Friday, December 16, 2011
Next To Nothing
Did I go out – of course I did. It was just Dave and me this morning. The first hour had a few waves. I actually caught one shoulder high wave
which made the whole morning for me. Later,
I had to back out of another shoulder high wave because I wasn’t out far enough
and the wave slapped me really hard on the back of the head. I deserved it.
Wore my new Isurus hood today. Wow, what a difference. This hood is my new best friend for the
winter.
Sunday, December 11, 2011
It Was Good and Cold
Enough about the cold. The waves were fun, even with a 6.0 high tide at 8:30. Glad I wasn't a kook today ;).
Saturday, December 10, 2011
Not Too Exciting Today
I've got plenty of excuses for my poor performance today. Colder than a witch's tit. Not much swell showing. High tide. Haven't surfed in a week. There was an eclipse of the moon. Should have brought the big board. Etc. Etc. Bottom line: I was kook today.
Thursday, December 8, 2011
Monday, December 5, 2011
A Brisk Start To The Day
Air: 38˚, water: 58˚, surf: belly to chest high (in between long
lulls). I’m going to say it was worth
it, only because of the two or three chest high waves I caught after the tide
dropped that reeled into the bay. Tomorrow there’s a 5.3 high tide at dawn, not
sure if I want to freeze my ass off again for swamped out little waves. If I do I’ll be wearing my gloves for sure,
my hands ached so bad after I got out of the water today I could barely take
pictures.
Sunday, December 4, 2011
Glad I Slept In Today
It was 38˚ this morning in SJC, the buoys were the same as yesterday so I saw no reason to make the effort today. Here's a frame grab from Surfline:
Saturday, December 3, 2011
Friday, December 2, 2011
That’s What I’m Talkin’ About
Just a handful of us this morning. Offshore, 60˚ water and belly to head high
waves. Way better than attending a corporate
conference like I did the last two days.
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