There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Feb 22nd

Smaller today.

Sunset from the plantation house.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Today was unreal. I paddled out at 5:50am; I was the only one on the beach. I surfed till 6:30 before Dave and Pete showed up. Then the 3 of us surfed until 7:00 before Chris and others began to arrive. I surfed in front of the shack pretty much by myself all morning until it was time to go to work at 8:00. Everyone at work is wondering about my shit eatin' grin. And to top it off I'm headed to Maui for 10 days on Saturday. Honolua Bay will be a nice change of pace.




Wednesday, February 17, 2010

It's come to this


SUP's as they were intended to be used.

Lame


This is the kind of crap that gives surfing that lame sterotype. Don't buy mattresses from kooks!

Feb 15


Surf from Monday Feb 15.
Just another great day of surf. Dropping NW swell - but still excellent surf.



WHY?!?

Cypher Vision - A Short Film

Wow! Surfing at 1000 frames per second.

Sunday, February 14, 2010



Really good today - a bit crowded, but I got my share.




I love this wave and am lucky to be able to surf here 3 or 4 days a week.





























Sunday, February 7, 2010

Blue Tarp Surfing

This is what I should have been doing today!

Jan 29th -30th - 31st

Good, Better, Best.

Been sick with the flu for several days; just coming out of the fog.






Wednesday, January 27, 2010



A non surf day for me; mega high tide and somebody has to work around here.

Early morning swamp thing at Thalia Street in Laguna on the way to work.

Sunday, January 24, 2010


Hey look there is a river at San Mateo point.

4 - 6 Brown and Muddy. I passed today when I saw a brown trout float by in the river.

Friday, January 22, 2010


Another Gloomy Day :(
But I did see a couple of guys on the inside jetty of the Newport Harbor entrance. Muddy - Ugly - Choppy - Junk. Teenagers; what are you gonna do?

Thursday, January 21, 2010


On the way too work this rainy morning - a lone surfable muddy wave just south of Scotsman's Cove.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Tuesday, January 19, 2010



Lots of rain yesterday - more on tap today, tomorrow and........

Laguna on the way to work this morning.

Monday, January 18, 2010



Rain all day, but a ray of sunshine in the evening.

More rain on the way.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Dano V Bottom


OK, no more new boards for a while.












Picked up a new Bonzer Pod Saturday. Can't wait to get it wet.







Friday, January 15, 2010

Missed the big part of the swell - business travel - today was a little closed out but got a few good ones. The sky was pink.


Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Jan 6, 2010


Flat, Flat and Flat - but you can see San Clemente island.

Sunday, January 3, 2010

Jan 3, 2010


The surf was a bit smaller today; knee to chest high and way too many longboarders. I probably should have brought my longboard but I rode the KG fish instead. It was a bit mushy, the winds were calm and the clouds were surreal.



Jan 2, 2010




Another good day of surf; after the tide dropped.

Friday, January 1, 2010


OK - I've been lazy and not added to this blog in weeks.


Resolution day.


Today was shoulder to head high - not too crowded and really fun. Surfed for almost 4 hours 11 - 3 and caught at least 25 decent waves. I'm spent for the day. Dinner and bed is all I want. It's supposed to pick up tomorrow - expecting the "crowd" to show again. Seems like I get the best waves in between swells.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Today was "Victory at Sea"; watched for a while and one by one everyone went home.