Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, April 19, 2019
Friday Is The New Saturday
Didn't seem that crowded this morning early but when I got up top after the sesh it was packed up there. Talked to Kevin for a minute, he went to Lowers, said it was uber crowded. Waves were chest high and fun if you caught the right one. Swell seemed a little crossed up.
One That Got Away
Then I get to work and have to listen to these kooks all day:
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