Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Tuesday, August 14, 2018
Yesterday's Effort
Waves were a little fickle yesterday. I managed to catch a handful of good set waves after I ate it on my first one. I had to paddle out to it and took off late as it was breaking. Nice effort but no cigar.
The worst part was the harassment paddling back out....
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