Today at uppers there were a few fun waves early but things slowed way down as the tide turned. But the water was warm and I walked away with 10 waves under my belt.
Friday 29OCT2010. I pulled up to this, nobody out. Couldn't get my wetsuit on fast enough.
There is nothing better than salt in the air and sand in my hair (what's left of it).
Friday, June 15, 2018
Leftovers For The Working Man
Too busy at work this week to get any of the last swell. I did paddle out on Monday midday at a spot that used to be called Sammy's back in the day but only for an hour. I skinned it cuz I didn't plan ahead, but the water was warm enough and the sun was out. Sammy's is primarily a left on south swells and it was nice to be out with just one other guy and catch a handful of waves.
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